Auberge

Fashion · Savannah, GA · Editorial by conversation. Commercial estimating for spring.

Eight to fifteen people make a fashion image. One of them is holding the camera.

Editorial and lookbook photography in Savannah. Every frame here carries the full credit block, because a fashion image is made by a crew and the convention exists for a reason — and under each one you can open what the shoot actually paid.

The work

Every frame, with everyone on it.

The credit block is not a courtesy. A fashion image is made by a crew, the convention for naming them is universal in print, and it is dropped almost everywhere else. Every name above is on every frame it belongs to, in the order the trade uses.

A woman in a camel coat, black wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses standing before a white modernist building

Bauhaus, Anywhere

Editorial · Ochre Quarterly, issue 14
Photography
Odile Auberge
Styling
Marisol Okonkwo
Hair
Devendra Rai
Make-up
Fiadh Ó Braonáin
Model
Tuuli Rehn at Grove
Production
Auberge Two
Manicure
Perpetua Lindgren
Set design
Halvor Ndiaye
Retouch
Kwabena Asare
Garments
Vestry Atelier
What this shoot paid
Fee$350 Studio and location permit −$240 Crew day rates, four −$620 Transport and meals −$180 Retouch, six frames −$140 Net −$830

A loss, and a normal one for an independent title. The stylist on this shoot has recommended us for three paid jobs since.

A figure in a long tan coat on a white balcony, one arm outstretched along the rail

Long Coat, White Rail

Editorial · Ochre Quarterly, issue 14
Photography
Odile Auberge
Styling
Marisol Okonkwo
Hair
Devendra Rai
Make-up
Fiadh Ó Braonáin
Model
Ilhan Yusuf at Grove
Assistant
Perpetua Lindgren
Digital tech
Halvor Ndiaye
Casting
Marisol Okonkwo
Retouch
Kwabena Asare
Garments
Vestry Atelier
What this shoot paid
Fee$350 Shared with the frame above — Additional assistant day −$220 Retouch, four frames −$95 Net $35

Same day, same crew, second story. Splitting a shoot day across two stories is how editorial is made to almost work.

A woman photographed from behind in a yellow coat and navy wide-brimmed hat on a city street

Yellow, From Behind

Editorial · Wend Magazine, autumn
Photography
Odile Auberge
Styling
Bexley Ferreira
Hair and make-up
Nnenna Achebe
Model
Saoirse Delacroix at Meridian
Casting
Wend Magazine
Manicure
Perpetua Lindgren
Assistant
Halvor Ndiaye
Retouch
Odile Auberge
Garments
Stylist's own and archive
What this shoot paid
Fee$900 Crew day rates, two −$480 Transport −$90 Retouch, in-house — Net $330

An established title, so a real fee. Still under a commercial half-day, and it took the same amount of everyone’s life.

A model in a shearling-trimmed coat and gold boots walking a catwalk past a seated audience

Shearling, Runway

Show coverage · Janerations, autumn presentation
Photography
Odile Auberge
Show production
Janerations
Styling
Bexley Ferreira
Hair
Devendra Rai
Make-up
Nnenna Achebe
Model
Anouk Thiessen at Meridian
Manicure
Perpetua Lindgren
Assistant
Halvor Ndiaye
Retouch
Odile Auberge
Garments
Janerations, knitwear collection
What this shoot paid
Fee$1,400 Assistant, one day −$220 Same-night edit and delivery −$300 Transport −$110 Net $770

Show coverage pays properly because the deadline is brutal. Images delivered by 2am for next-morning press.

A woman in a dark high-collared coat photographed against autumn foliage

Collar, Autumn

Lookbook · Vestry Atelier, autumn/winter
Photography
Odile Auberge
Art direction
Vestry Atelier
Styling
Marisol Okonkwo
Hair and make-up
Fiadh Ó Braonáin
Model
Rosalind Achterberg at Grove
Production
Auberge Two
Manicure
Perpetua Lindgren
Digital tech
Halvor Ndiaye
Retouch
Kwabena Asare
Garments
Vestry Atelier
What this shoot paid
Fee$4,200 Crew day rates, four −$980 Location fee −$350 Transport and meals −$220 Retouch, 22 frames −$640 Net $2,010

Commercial. This one pays for the two above it, which is the honest shape of the year.

1 of the 5 shoots above lost money.

The crew

18 people made the 5 frames above.

  • Anouk Thiessen at Meridian Model
  • Auberge Two Production
  • Bexley Ferreira Styling
  • Devendra Rai Hair
  • Fiadh Ó Braonáin Make-up · Hair and make-up
  • Halvor Ndiaye Set design · Digital tech · Assistant
  • Ilhan Yusuf at Grove Model
  • Janerations Show production
  • Kwabena Asare Retouch
  • Marisol Okonkwo Styling · Casting
  • Nnenna Achebe Hair and make-up · Make-up
  • Odile Auberge Photography · Retouch
  • Perpetua Lindgren Manicure · Assistant
  • Rosalind Achterberg at Grove Model
  • Saoirse Delacroix at Meridian Model
  • Tuuli Rehn at Grove Model
  • Vestry Atelier Art direction
  • Wend Magazine Casting

Rates, said out loud

Editorial does not pay. That is not a complaint, it is the arithmetic.

Typical day rates by kind of fashion commission
Kind Day rate Note
Independent title $0 – $400 Expenses often unreimbursed. Everyone on the call sheet is there for the book.
Established title $500 – $1,500 A real fee. Still less than a commercial half-day.
Show coverage $1,200 – $2,000 Paid properly because the turnaround is overnight.
Lookbook $2,500 – $4,500 Plus licence, quoted separately by media, term and territory.
Campaign Quoted per job Where the licence usually costs more than the shoot.

So why do editorial at all?

Because it is how the book gets made, how you meet the stylists who recommend you, and how commercial clients find you. That is a working answer rather than a romantic one — and the shoot above that lost $830 is the reason three paid jobs happened.

Open the Credit Standard →

Commissions

Five things in the first email.

What a commercial enquiry needs to say, so the first reply is a number rather than a question.

What is being shot
Garment count and whether there is a model changes the day more than anything else.
Where it runs
Lookbook, e-commerce, paid social and outdoor are four different licences.
How long you need it
A season, a year, or no end date. It is the cheapest thing to decide early.
Who is art directing
You, us, or an agency. All three are fine; not knowing on the day is not.
The date, honestly
Casting and crew are booked in the same week. A moving date costs the crew, not us.

Common questions

Before you write.

Why publish what a shoot paid?

Because the numbers are the only honest explanation for how this business is shaped. Editorial is subsidised by commercial work in every fashion studio in the country, and pretending otherwise leaves young photographers budgeting for a job that does not exist.

Will you credit everyone?

Always, on every image, wherever we control the caption. If a title drops the block we ask once and then we hold the line: we do not post the frame without the crew on it.

Do you shoot tests?

A few a year, with people we want to work with rather than to fill a day. A test where nobody is paid should at least be a test everybody chose.

Can you work with our art director?

Preferably. A strong deck makes the day faster and the results better. What slows a shoot is not direction, it is direction that arrives at eleven.

Who books the model?

Whoever is paying, usually. We will run casting if you want it and it is a line on the estimate — options, fittings and the agency booking fee, which is 20% on top of the model rate and surprises people every time.

Do you retouch in-house?

Small jobs yes, volume no. Kwabena is credited on the frames he worked on, which is the same reason everyone else is.

Contact

Tell us the five things.

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